Recently, I was going through my list of linked blogs here on the big diamond. The left field area, which lies a bit down from the top, on the left side of the page, lists blogs which are particularly important to me for one reason or another. The list is an eclectic one, ranging from subject expert blogs like Juan Cole's Informed Comment to citizen commentary by local NYC diarists like Rob Ellman.
I like to scan a hefty sample of what’s out there on the political scene, as well as to read blogs that explore personal life, art, and culture, like a young writer, Aja, who posts the Middletown Expat, or an environmentally savvy grandfather and photographer, Jonathan at Past Peak. Somewhere in the midst of all these categories has been Baghdad Burning, a blog by a bright young Iraqi woman, written throughout the American invasion and subsequent occupation. Her nom d’blog is Riverbend and her weblog has gradually become a detailed, aching cry about the catastrophe that has befallen her country since ours invaded it.
Or at least Riverbend’s blog used to be such a diary, of observed life in Baghdad…until April, when her family finally decided they'd better join the millions of Iraqis who’ve already fled their country in search of a safe haven, away from the random shootings and the bombs, far from the American occupation and the ethnic cleansing that has become their reality in Iraq’s capital city today. It was a long period of months since River posted her last piece from home, sadly announcing her family’s imminent departure.
Like all her readers, I wondered what had become of River and her beloved E., their parents, her aunt and her aunt’s children, as they made their way across the border and into their new lives as refugees. I worried that no news might be bad news. Many of the people leaving Baghdad have met with violence on the road. Some never even made it out of the city, past the checkpoints the local militias had set up.
But finally, as I looked through my left field this morning, here she was, writing from Syria.
Some excerpts:
The last few hours in the house were a blur. It
was time to go and I went from room to room
saying goodbye to everything. I said goodbye to
my desk- the one I’d used all through high school
and college. I said goodbye to the curtains and the
bed and the couch. I said goodbye to the armchair
E. and I broke when we were younger. I said
goodbye to the big table over which we’d gathered
for meals and to do homework. I said goodbye to
the ghosts of the framed pictures that once hung
on the walls, because the pictures have long
since been taken down and stored away- but I
knew just what hung where. I said goodbye to the
silly board games we inevitably fought over- the
Arabic Monopoly with the missing cards and
money that no one had the heart to throw away.
I knew then as I know now that these were all just
items- people are so much more important. Still, a
house is like a museum in that it tells a certain
history. You look at a cup or stuffed toy and a
chapter of memories opens up before your very
eyes. It suddenly hit me that I wanted to leave so
much less than I thought I did.
…As we crossed the border and saw the last of
the Iraqi flags, the tears began again. The car was
silent except for the prattling of the driver who was
telling us stories of escapades he had while
crossing the border. I sneaked a look at my
mother sitting beside me and her tears were
flowing as well. There was simply nothing to say
as we left Iraq. I wanted to sob, but I didn’t want to
seem like a baby. I didn’t want the driver to think I
was ungrateful for the chance to leave what had
become a hellish place over the last four and a
half years.
The Syrian border was almost equally packed, but
the environment was more relaxed. People were
getting out of their cars and stretching. Some of
them recognized each other and waved or shared
woeful stories or comments through the windows
of the cars. Most importantly, we were all equal.
Sunnis and Shia, Arabs and Kurds… we were all
equal in front of the Syrian border personnel.
We were all refugees- rich or poor. And refugees
all look the same- there’s a unique expression
you’ll find on their faces- relief, mixed with sorrow,
tinged with apprehension. The faces almost all
look the same.
I'm glad you're still with us, River. I hope someday you'll be able to go home to Baghdad and breathe the air of your city again. Till then, thanks for letting us share a bit of your world and for keeping us all honest about what our leaders and our fearful politics have wrought for you and your people. I'm glad you're safe, for the moment.